Polysorbate 80

As a general rule, polysorbate 80 is one of the most active emulsifiers used in cosmetic formulation to effectively blend oil and water-based ingredients into stable complexes. The "80" reflects a strong lipophilic, that is, oil-attracting fraction, giving it greater emulsifying activity compared to lower-numbered polysorbates like Polysorbate 20. More specifically, Polysorbate 80 is an ethoxylated sorbitan ester of oleic acid well-suited for stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions, especially those containing heavier oils or higher oil content.
This allows the said emulsifier to be widely used in creams, serums, lotions, or in any formulation where any form of high emulsification may be required for a smooth, even feel. In particular, it is very effective when oil-soluble actives need to be incorporated. Polysorbate 80 works by helping fragrance, essential oils, and botanical extracts dissolve in formula water, which it does exceptionally well, dispersing them evenly and holding them stable.
Being a nonionic surfactant, it is relatively well-tolerated by most skin types and, therefore, can be used in a wide variety of formulations. The ingredient also contributes to product texture improvement and enhances product spreadability, adding to the sensory feel of high quality. Although Polysorbate 80 does not function as a preservative, this ingredient does help support consistently high quality and performance in multi-functional skincare products.