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Read the Label with Us: Centella Peptide Complex Anti-Wrinkle Serum

A skincare label can tell you much more than which “hero ingredient” appears on the front of the bottle.

Turn a serum around, and the ingredient list reveals the different pieces that make the formula work: ingredients that attract water, ingredients that condition the skin, botanical extracts, emollients, texture enhancers, preservatives — and, in this case, a carefully selected combination of peptides.

Today, we’re taking a closer look at The Chemistry Journal’s Centella Peptide Complex Anti-Wrinkle Serum, our Collagen Hydration Booster.

The name highlights two important parts of the formula — Centella asiatica, also known as Cica and Gotu Kola and peptides — but the full ingredient list tells a more complex story.

Alongside three peptides and Centella asiatica extract, the serum contains glycerin, aloe vera, jojoba oil, PCA, sodium PCA, sodium lactate and an extensive blend of amino acids. Together, these ingredients create a formula that approaches skin care from several directions: hydration, conditioning, moisture retention and support for the appearance of smoother, more supple skin.

So, what exactly is inside the bottle?


Let’s read the label.



First Things First: How to Read an Ingredient List


Cosmetic ingredient lists follow a basic principle: ingredients present at concentrations above 1% generally have to appear in descending order of predominance. Ingredients used at 1% or less may be listed in any order after those present above 1%.

That makes ingredient order useful — but not a formula for calculating percentages.

Seeing an ingredient near the beginning of an INCI list tells us that it is relatively prominent in the formula, but the label alone cannot tell us its exact concentration. Likewise, an ingredient appearing farther down the list is not necessarily ineffective. Many cosmetic ingredients are designed to function at relatively low concentrations.

This becomes particularly important when reading peptide formulas.

Peptides do not need to sit directly behind water on an ingredient list to automatically be meaningful, and their position cannot by itself tell us whether a finished product will produce a particular clinical result.

Instead, the ingredient list is best viewed as a map of the formulation.

And this one has several distinct neighborhoods.



What Kind of Formula Is This?


At first glance, the Centella Peptide Complex Anti-Wrinkle Serum can be divided into several functional groups:


The base and hydration system

Water, glycerin, aloe vera, butylene glycol and other water-binding ingredients help create the serum's hydrating foundation.


The peptide complex

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 form the peptide component of the formula.


The botanical complex

Witch hazel, Centella asiatica, horsetail, geranium and dandelion extracts contribute plant-derived compounds to the formulation.


The Natural Moisturizing Factor-inspired complex

PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate and multiple amino acids resemble substances naturally associated with the skin's own water-binding system.


The emollient component

Jojoba seed oil helps condition and soften the skin.


The formulation system

Hydroxyethylcellulose, carrageenan, polysorbate 20 and carbomer help give the serum its texture, stability and consistency.


The preservation system

Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin help keep a water-based cosmetic formula microbiologically stable during its usable life.

That means this is not simply a Centella serum with a few peptides added. Hydration and skin conditioning are substantial parts of the formulation story as well.



The Peptide Complex: Three Peptides, Different Roles


Peptides have become one of the most talked-about categories in modern skincare.

At their simplest, peptides are short chains of amino acids. Proteins such as collagen are also built from amino acids, but peptides are much smaller structures.

That does not mean that applying a peptide-containing serum simply “adds collagen” to your skin.

Instead, different cosmetic peptides are investigated for different biological activities. Some are described as signal peptides because laboratory research suggests that they can influence cellular processes associated with components of the extracellular matrix.

The Centella Peptide Complex Anti-Wrinkle Serum contains three:


Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic peptide used in cosmetic formulations designed to address the appearance of aging skin.


The palmitoyl part of its name refers to the attachment of a fatty-acid component. Palmitoylation can make a peptide more lipophilic, which is one strategy used in cosmetic peptide design to improve its interaction with the skin.


Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 has been investigated particularly in relation to pathways involved in extracellular-matrix and collagen biology.

That makes it an interesting ingredient in an anti-wrinkle formulation — but it is important to distinguish biological plausibility and laboratory findings from evidence that a finished cosmetic will erase wrinkles.


In the formula: Part of the serum's three-peptide complex, supporting its focus on the visible signs of skin aging.


Learn more: Explore Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 here in our Elements section.


Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is another lipid-modified peptide used extensively in anti-aging cosmetics.

It is often categorized as a signal peptide and has been investigated for its potential interaction with processes involved in extracellular-matrix production.


You may also encounter Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 together with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. That pairing has become a recognizable peptide combination in cosmetic formulation.


In the formula: It forms one part of the serum's peptide system and complements Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.


Learn more: Explore Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 here in our Elements section.


Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a four-amino-acid peptide modified with a palmitoyl group.

It is frequently paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in anti-aging formulations. Research surrounding this peptide combination has investigated effects associated with the extracellular matrix and visible signs of skin aging.


In the formula: It works as part of the multi-peptide approach rather than functioning as the serum's only anti-aging ingredient.


Learn more: Explore Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 here in our Elements section.


Science Note

Do peptides really reduce wrinkles?

There is scientific rationale behind the use of certain peptides in skincare, and some individual peptide formulations have produced encouraging laboratory and clinical results. But the evidence is not equally strong for every peptide, concentration or finished product.Research on cosmetic peptides also frequently comes from ingredient manufacturers, patents and supplier studies rather than large independent randomized clinical trials. For that reason, it is more scientifically accurate to describe topical peptides as promising ingredients for supporting the appearance of aging skin than to suggest that every peptide serum has been proven to rebuild collagen or eliminate wrinkles.



Centella Asiatica: More Than a Trending Ingredient


Centella asiatica has become popular in skincare, but its cosmetic use is not simply a social-media trend.

Also known as gotu kola or tiger grass, Centella asiatica is a plant traditionally used in several systems of medicine. Its extracts contain biologically active compounds including triterpenes and related constituents.


In topical skincare research, Centella and its components have attracted interest for their relationship to skin repair, inflammatory processes and extracellular-matrix biology.

The important word here is extract.

A botanical extract is not a single molecule. Its exact composition can vary according to the plant material, extraction process and standardization used. We therefore should not assume that every product containing “Centella asiatica extract” delivers identical concentrations of the same active compounds.


In the formula: Centella Asiatica Extract contributes to the serum's botanical and skin-conditioning complex and complements its peptide-focused positioning.


Learn more: Explore Centella Asiatica Extract in here in our Elements section.



Hydration Is a Bigger Part of This Formula Than the Name Suggests


The word peptide may attract most of the attention, but look farther down the label and another interesting pattern appears.

PCA

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Histidine

Phenyl-alanine

Why are so many amino acids and related compounds in one serum?

The answer brings us to one of the skin's own hydration systems:



What Is Natural Moisturizing Factor?


Natural Moisturizing Factor is a collective term for a mixture of water-soluble compounds found within the outermost layer of the skin.

Free amino acids and their derivatives, including PCA, together with lactate and other substances, contribute to this system.


These compounds are hygroscopic — they can attract and bind water — helping the stratum corneum maintain hydration and flexibility.

That makes the amino-acid complex in this formula especially interesting.

The serum is not literally replacing the skin's entire Natural Moisturizing Factor. Instead, it incorporates several ingredients that are also associated with the skin's natural water-binding environment.


PCA

Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, usually shortened to PCA, is associated with the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor and helps support moisture retention.


Learn more: Explore PCA in here in our Elements section.


Sodium PCA

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of PCA and is commonly used as a humectant in skincare.

Its water-binding properties make it particularly useful in hydrating formulations.


Learn more: Explore Sodium PCA here in our Elements section.


Sodium Lactate

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid and another humectant associated with the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor.

Here its role is primarily about hydration rather than exfoliation.


Learn more: Explore Sodium Lactate here in our Elements section.



Why So Many Amino Acids?

The formula contains:

Arginine · Aspartic Acid · Glycine · Alanine · Serine · Valine · Isoleucine · Proline · Threonine · Histidine · Phenylalanine


Amino acids are the building blocks from which peptides and proteins are constructed, but their role in a topical cosmetic is not simply to become new collagen.


Several free amino acids are naturally found within the stratum corneum and contribute to Natural Moisturizing Factor. In cosmetic formulations, amino acids can therefore function primarily as skin-conditioning and moisture-supporting ingredients.

This is an important distinction.


The presence of collagen-related amino acids such as glycine and proline does not mean that applying them causes the skin to assemble those ingredients directly into new collagen.


Their inclusion makes more sense when viewed as part of the serum's broader hydration and skin-conditioning system.



Complete Ingredient Breakdown


Now that we have looked at the main systems, let's go through the complete label in order.

Water

What it is: Purified water is the primary solvent and base of many water-based skincare products.

What it does: It dissolves or disperses water-soluble ingredients and helps create the serum's fluid texture.

Why it's here: It forms the foundation of the formula.

Better known as witch hazel, Hamamelis virginiana is a botanical extract commonly used in skincare.

Witch-hazel-derived ingredients are used as skin-conditioning agents and are also known for their astringent properties.

Its position near the beginning of the ingredient list makes it a noteworthy component of this particular formula.

Why it's here: It contributes to the botanical and skin-conditioning portion of the serum.

Glycerin is one of skincare's best-established humectants.

It attracts and holds water and is widely used to support hydration of the stratum corneum.

Why it's here: It provides an important part of the serum's hydrating base.

Aloe vera leaf juice is a botanical ingredient widely used in topical formulations for its skin-conditioning properties.

Why it's here: It complements the humectant and botanical components of the serum.

Alcohol is one of those ingredients that often causes an immediate reaction when people read a skincare label — but context matters.

In cosmetics, alcohol can function as a solvent and can also influence texture, spreadability and the way a formula dries on the skin.

At sufficiently high concentrations, alcohol can be drying or irritating for some people, particularly those with very dry or sensitive skin. Its presence does not, however, automatically make a formulation “bad.”

The finished formula, concentration, frequency of use and individual skin tolerance all matter.

Why it's here: It can help dissolve ingredients and contribute to the serum's sensory properties.

A synthetic palmitoylated peptide used in cosmetic anti-aging formulations.

Why it's here: It forms part of the serum's peptide complex.

A lipid-modified signal peptide investigated for its relationship with extracellular-matrix processes.

Why it's here: It contributes to the serum's multi-peptide approach and is commonly paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.

A palmitoylated cosmetic peptide frequently formulated together with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1.

Why it's here: It completes the serum's three-peptide complex.

A botanical extract containing compounds that have been investigated in relation to skin repair and extracellular-matrix biology.

Why it's here: It contributes to the serum's botanical and skin-conditioning profile.

Equisetum arvense, commonly known as horsetail, is a botanical extract used as a skin-conditioning ingredient in cosmetic formulations.

Why it's here: Part of the formula's botanical complex.

An extract derived from Geranium maculatum, commonly known as wild geranium.

Why it's here: Used as part of the serum's botanical skin-conditioning blend.

Derived from the root of the dandelion plant.

Like many botanical extracts, its chemical composition is complex and can vary according to the extraction method.

Why it's here: It contributes to the serum's botanical ingredient complex.

A plant-derived polysaccharide obtained from Cassia angustifolia seeds.

Polysaccharides can help bind water and condition the skin.

Why it's here: Supports the serum's hydration and skin-conditioning profile.

Better known as jojoba oil, this ingredient is technically composed predominantly of liquid wax esters rather than conventional triglyceride oils.

It functions as an emollient, helping soften and smooth the skin.

Why it's here: Adds an emollient component to an otherwise predominantly water-based formula.

An amino acid used as a skin-conditioning ingredient and also found naturally among the skin's free amino acids.

Why it's here: Part of the formula's amino-acid complex.

An amino acid used in cosmetics primarily for skin conditioning.

Why it's here: Part of the amino-acid and moisture-supporting system.

PCA is associated with Natural Moisturizing Factor and has water-binding properties.

Why it's here: Supports moisture retention.

One of the simplest amino acids and a naturally occurring component of proteins.

Topically, its relevance here is primarily as a skin-conditioning component of the amino-acid complex.

A naturally occurring amino acid used as a skin-conditioning ingredient.

A naturally occurring amino acid and one of the free amino acids associated with the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor.

An essential amino acid used in cosmetic formulations as a skin-conditioning ingredient.

Another essential amino acid included within the serum's amino-acid complex.

An amino acid found in many proteins, including collagen.

Its presence in a topical cosmetic should not be interpreted as direct collagen replacement; here it functions primarily as part of the skin-conditioning amino-acid blend.

An essential amino acid used in skincare as a conditioning ingredient.

An amino acid included within the serum's broader amino-acid complex.

An essential amino acid used as a skin-conditioning ingredient.

The sodium salt of PCA and a well-known humectant.

Why it's here: Helps attract and retain moisture as part of the serum's NMF-inspired hydration system.

A humectant and component associated with Natural Moisturizing Factor.

Why it's here: Supports water retention and hydration within the stratum corneum.

A cellulose-derived polymer commonly used to thicken and stabilize cosmetic formulations.

Why it's here: Helps create the serum's consistency and texture.

A polysaccharide derived from red seaweed that can be used as a thickening, stabilizing and texture-enhancing ingredient.

Why it's here: Contributes to the physical structure and sensory properties of the serum.

A surfactant and solubilizing ingredient.

Why it's here: Helps ingredients with different solubility characteristics remain evenly incorporated into the formulation.

A synthetic polymer widely used as a thickener and gel-forming ingredient.

Why it's here: Helps give the serum its viscosity and stable texture.

A multifunctional ingredient commonly used as a solvent and humectant and to improve the sensory characteristics of cosmetic formulations.

Why it's here: Supports hydration while helping the overall formulation perform consistently.

A multifunctional cosmetic ingredient frequently used alongside preservatives.

It can provide skin-conditioning properties while helping enhance the effectiveness of a preservation system.

Why it's here: Supports the serum's preservation system together with phenoxyethanol.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative widely used in water-based cosmetics.

Preservation is essential in products containing water because an inadequately preserved formulation can provide an environment in which microorganisms grow.

Why it's here: Helps protect the formula against microbial contamination during its intended shelf life and use.

Explore all ingredients in here in our Elements section.

What the Ingredient List Tells Us About the Formula


Once we move beyond individual ingredients and look at the formula as a whole, three characteristics stand out.


1. Peptides Are Only One Part of the Story

The three-peptide system gives the serum its most obvious anti-aging component, particularly the combination of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.

But peptides don't work in isolation.

The serum surrounds them with humectants, amino acids, botanical extracts and an emollient. That matters because the visible appearance of skin depends on more than changes to the deeper extracellular matrix.


Well-hydrated skin can temporarily appear smoother and more supple, and fine dehydration lines may become less noticeable.

That is a cosmetic benefit in its own right.


2. The Amino-Acid Complex Deserves More Attention

The extensive amino-acid blend may be one of the least obvious but most interesting parts of the label.

Combined with PCA, Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate, it gives the formula a clear connection to the types of hygroscopic substances involved in the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor.


Rather than presenting amino acids as ingredients that magically “turn into collagen,” it is more useful to understand their role here as part of a broader skin-conditioning and moisture-supporting system.


3. Centella Is Part of a Larger Botanical Complex

Centella asiatica is the botanical highlighted in the product name, but it isn't alone.

Witch hazel, aloe vera, horsetail, wild geranium and dandelion also appear on the label.


This illustrates one of the central lessons of Read the Label with Us:

The ingredient on the front of the bottle is rarely the whole formulation story.



What About Alcohol and Witch Hazel?


A science-based approach to skincare also means resisting the temptation to divide ingredient lists into “good” and “bad” ingredients.

Two ingredients in this formula that may attract attention are Alcohol and Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, or witch hazel.

Both can be perfectly legitimate cosmetic ingredients.

Alcohol can act as a solvent and influence the texture and sensory properties of a formulation. Witch-hazel-derived ingredients can function as astringents and skin-conditioning agents.


At the same time, individual tolerance matters.

People with very dry, compromised or particularly reactive skin may find some alcohol-containing or astringent formulations less comfortable than others. An ingredient list alone cannot tell us exactly how irritating a finished formula will be because the final concentration, combination of ingredients and complete formulation all influence skin response.


This is why reading a label should inform your skincare decisions — not replace paying attention to your own skin.


Science Note

Ingredient ≠ finished product

Ingredient research tells us what a substance can do under particular experimental conditions. A finished serum tells a more complicated story.

Concentration, ingredient interactions, delivery system, stability, packaging, frequency of use and individual skin biology can all influence performance.

That is why a scientifically interesting ingredient does not automatically make every product containing it clinically proven — and why spotting one ingredient you dislike does not automatically tell you how the entire formulation will behave.


So, What Is the Centella Peptide Complex Anti-Wrinkle Serum Designed to Do?


Read as a whole, the ingredient list suggests a multi-layered approach.


Hydrate:

Glycerin, PCA, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Butylene Glycol and the amino-acid complex contribute to the serum's moisture-supporting system.


Condition and soften:

Jojoba oil, aloe, polysaccharides and multiple conditioning ingredients help support softer, smoother-feeling skin.


Provide peptide-based anti-aging care:

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 form the serum's targeted peptide complex.


Incorporate Centella and complementary botanicals:

Centella asiatica sits alongside witch hazel, aloe, horsetail, wild geranium and dandelion extracts.

The result is a formula that combines peptide technology with hydration, amino acids and botanical ingredients rather than relying on a single “hero” active.




The Bottom Line


If you looked only at the name Centella Peptide Complex Anti-Wrinkle Serum, you might expect the story to begin and end with Centella and peptides.

The label tells us otherwise.


Yes, the formula contains three palmitoylated peptides, including the frequently paired Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.

Yes, it contains Centella asiatica.


But it also contains an extensive combination of amino acids, PCA, Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate that makes hydration and skin conditioning an important part of the formulation.


There is glycerin.

There is aloe.

There is jojoba.

There are multiple botanical extracts.


And there is an entire supporting system of ingredients whose job isn't to become the headline — it is to make the formula work.



References

  1. U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Summary of Cosmetics Labeling Requirements. U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

    FDA — Summary of Cosmetics Labeling Requirements


  2. Nukaly HY, Halawani IR, Irtaza HM, Alturkistani T, Serafi MR, Alhawsawi W, et al. Oral and topical peptides for skin aging: systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. Front Med (Lausanne). 2026;13:1618306. doi:10.3389/fmed.2026.1618306.

    PubMed — Oral and topical peptides for skin aging


  3. Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Dańczak-Pazdrowska A, Brzezińska M. Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res. 2014;28(8):1117–1124. doi:10.1002/ptr.5110.

    PubMed — Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview


  4. Gunnarsson M, Mojumdar EH, Topgaard D, Sparr E. Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility. J Colloid Interface Sci. 2021;604:480–491. doi:10.1016/j.jcis.2021.07.012.

    PubMed — Natural Moisturizing Factor and the stratum corneum


  5. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion on Phenoxyethanol. SCCS/1575/16. European Commission; 2016. Final version adopted October 6, 2016.

    European Commission — SCCS Opinion on Phenoxyethanol


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